Wonky Collars and Wrinkled Layers

November 21, 2013 • Fashion

Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada are linked not only by their formidable influence on current men’s fashion, but also by their stylist, Olivier Rizzo, who for Fall/Winter 2013 made collars jut out at off-kilter angles. We explore the crooked collar further.

Tracing back the crooked collar is a weird task, and one we may have not done truly successfully. Mostly because it’s not really an intentional expression of style. Instead, the crooked collar is a weird side effect of mistake, which makes it that much more interesting as a choice. The pseudo-lazy style of men in the mid-2000s exemplified by the”disheveled-but-sexy!”  Beckham influenced half-tucked shirts makes the half popped collar plausible but Raf and Miuccia use it somewhat differently. Apparent also in the work of Paul Smith, the wrinkled shirt collar takes the stuffy and makes it lived in. Both Prada and Raf Simons, sometimes critically scientific, inject emotion and freedom with the weird collar. But when it comes to choosing this look for yourself, is it freedom or control?

crooked collar 1

Look 31 at Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2013

Iris: I think the collars were my favorite part about these two shows, apart from the colors. Because it’s something I’ve been so opposed to for so long and something I never thought I would do/like. I think the crooked collars and wrinkled shirts a very important element in both shows, like the vibes would be so different if the collars were straight and proper. It’s like a mom let her son dress himself up for the his first day of 2nd grade and he literally threw on a sweater but decided not to wear it anymore and took it off and in the process his collars got all wonky without even noticing it.

Daniel: But then his mom made him wear the sweater anyway because it’s like cold. Yeah, it really makes sense for right now because there’s this whole obsession with the collar. Like every dress needs a collar, there are collar necklaces in case you don’t got one already, and it all has this message of like really buttoned up, clean styling and these crooked collars resist that urge but still manage to make it one of the most important parts of the outfit.

Daniel: Would you wear?

Iris: Yeah, I would wear. Before, I liked my collars very straight and proper and buttoned to the top which out of habit I still do but sometimes I want to stupidly rock a Prada collar but apparently it’s hard for me to button my button ups the wrong way. I like them because it looks really funny and people think it’s unintentional but I really did put a lot of effort to make this collar wonky.

Daniel: Lmfao right? Like my favorite thing about this in general is that it totally looks not-obsessed but in actuality, it’s incredibly self-obsessed. Like obviously there’s the whole I actually-didn’t-realize-I-screwed-up-this-morning thing but as a fashion choice it’s hilarious and stupid but cool and I like that it takes something seemingly careless and turns it into something you over-analyze about your look that day


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