J.W. Anderson says that Fall/Winter is when he focuses his nascent ideas from Spring, and that’s both true and false for his latest effort for 2014. True in that, this time six months ago, his collection offered up more concepts than clothing. But he also introduced a lot of ideas that weren’t present for his last menswear collection. This time around he gave us more variety and focused on what he does best: providing styling solutions for the strange and perversely working within the parameters of the existing. We discuss how J.Dubs is injecting sweetness into boring clothes by doing cool things with dumb stuff in fun ways.
Iris: I don’t really get one distinct vibe from this show. It’s kinda like random, like it doesn’t really look like the same show throughout even though all of the pants are the same.
Daniel: I kinda dig that, like it makes it more accessible–or maybe relatable?–in comparison to last season which was so like one thing. That spongey knee-length body-hugging/body-morphing dress with a high neckline and very baggy pants. I mean I was into both all the same but this time around felt really cool and sorta real like they’d just be nice to wear in a lot of occasions (real and imaginary). There were more options and it was lighter. All of it had this relaxed vibe that hasn’t been in his “menswear” for awhile, like maybe even going on three + years ago. It was still very minimal in context, but there was way more decoration fitting in the vein of like the mood surrounding the last set of women’s shows for SS14.
Iris: The first three looks are like these graphic designers whos sites I used to visit I forgot their url so this is so irrelevant but it looks like so that/I just graduated from graphic design school and I’m freelancing for my friends who own a small but steadily rising art museum. When I saw the show, I kinda got like person who likes to eat and sleep like gardening idky! Probs because of the bags I can imagine them going to buy like flowers and putting their wares in there and like when not gardening they use their bags to go grocery shopping and they live in an area where the weather is always changing so they can start the cold day with turtlenecks to v necks and if they get cold by evening, they put back the turtleneck.
Daniel: And that’s how they get those cowlicks.
Daniel: I liked how many different versions of like a v-neck there were, and that it was like a lot of the same thing pushed in varying ways, which is indicative of his like process of working in threes and whatever. Like it was a v-neck dress with asymmetric sleeves, a v-neck sweater, and a v-neck coat. All in the same camel wool. And speaking of sweaters, those short bulbous rounded sleeves were ridiculous. They were almost like princess sleeves on raglan sweaters in these weird rough knits. It was almost muscle-y looking in silhouette but then also muffin-topish, so it was like deflated body builder and I just liked how loosely he treats shape and body.
Iris: Necks were so important in this show, literally like more than five different looks for necks shown. And rolling up your sleeves or other arm focus. My favorite look was Look 27 with the ruffles. I’m just really biased toward loving ruffles. I think the frills on the collars are kinda really cool because you can still see the normal collar part. I also dug those pleated coats like Dior vibes. Nvm, I changed my mind. Look 12 (right) is because of the like back side. I love that like exposed back. It’s like here’s my full back, but nah I’m gonna keep my turtleneck and keep that a mystery.
Daniel: I didn’t even see that! Always the surprises. The brooches and the bracelets and the bags though, like all so granny in like that Advanced Style sorta way. I’m really on that groove right now with styling like sloppy but gigantic accessorizing on simple clothes and colors. Idk, like grandmas always capris in total, and the cropped pants throughout this show so reflected that. Like I have too much more to say but no way else to say it. The little peplums on looks 13-16 were like the bottom of a blazer peaking out of a shirt, and it highlights how much his design depends on these basic building blocks of very traditional ideas. On the goofier side, duct tape into bracelets and buckets into bags. But that’s his strong point, chopping up and presenting these basic notions of dressing and emphasizing the most banal aspects of them in a mixture that makes them exciting. And in a very him-manner, I’ve looked at this collection for way too long and never want to see it again so check back with me next season. On to Milan.